Hotel Durmitor: Searching for trust in a city of rust

I’m a writer who never writes about nostalgia. About any kind of nostalgia.

A few nights ago, as it usually happens during the night, I was missing one’s hands.

Oh, how they knew to touch, to carry all the weight of my gray days on their palms. That night I almost felt them on my waist, on my skin, and everywhere my memories drifted. Even my memories are blind and deaf under the surge of nostalgia that I feel when I see him. And I see him often, even now when he’s on the other part of the country.

My novels, my poems are all based on love, passion and death. But not even during those nights could I ever write anything about nostalgia. It has always been a subject of which I had nothing to say. When it comes to overcoming and letting go, all I have to say is: keep quiet and put up with it, this too shall pass.

However, today I want to pay a tribute to something that is forgotten. Maybe it will be easier to write about when I’m not the forgotten one.

Or not.

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It is a national treasure of Montenegro, one of many that is left to decay and oblivion.

All my life it’s here, 300 meters from my house, and every day I’m the witness of it’s destruction. One collective suffering.

Back in the time Hotel Durmitor was wonderful, lively place, with 650 workers and a rich offer. Now, Hotel Durmitor is a ghost house.

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Montenegro is a beautiful country, but I think that there is no other nation where people care so little about their home. In general, unintelligent nation and insatiable government. They don’t sell the land anymore, now they sell the spirit and identity.

It seems that me and Hotel Durmitor, while drinking coffee in it’s ruined lobby, accept deterioration with the hope that the same will not happen with everything around us.

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The only thing that comforts me is that when their tits, brands, empty talk and deeply rooted nihilism rot, my mountain will still be there.

There’s a song that I’ve heard recently, so tender and harmless, such as those common morning coffees SOKO – First love never dies.

Dear melody fills the blue room, and it’s funny to me that I found it right here. In my life the concept of the blue room has always been a refuge.

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I close my eyes, I hear the birds and the trees, and beautiful, pastel curtains, the sound of fine crystal, the smell of fresh cakes and peace.

Here we are, quite alive.

I never let myself miss my past, to the past I can always go back. I go back often, to be reminded.

Remind myself what is the value of all what I have gave and lost.

Remind myself what is the value of what I still have.

Remind myself that I can’t be satisfied with wrong stories, cause I  know how I used to be loved.

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Durmitor, Škrka: back to the mountains


The new morning dawned on Durmitor and it seems to me that neither this time will I spend enough time to hug this mountain the way it hugged me when I lived here. Back in the time the mountain was my cruel professor, teaching me everything that helped me to be great every time the world threw me under its feet. That’s why I feel every moment I spend here have to be special and every day I have to do something. Same thing this morning. The clouds have gathered over the Durmitor and a drop of rain tells us that we should pack up our plans into a cup of coffee in one of the local cafes. No. We will go up. If it rains, we will choose to do the shorter route. That’s what we do.

Stožina, na putu za Dobri do

Stožina, on the way to Dobri do

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Stožina and Valovito lake

After breakfast we drive to our starting point – Dobri Do, which is located approximately 3km from Sedlo, on the way to Trsa. The car goes back to Zabljak and now we’re here, there’s no turning back. The only way we will choose is a sharp rise which we climb until the drizzly rain and the wind increases, although I have a feeling that it will soon calm down and will let us get to the mountain hut where we will spend the night.

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We leave Sedlo behind. The track is a combination of rock and soil, and vegetation is rare – grass and wildflowers from which I made wreaths when I was a child. The climb is steady and quite tiring us, and then we reach the saddle Škrčko zdrijelo, located in the middle of imaginary path that I mapped in my head. This is the highest on the track, at an altitude of 2114m. Before the saddle is steady climb, but after it everything becomes easy, only a strong wind is trying to take us off the road.

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Our view is changed, the vegetation is different, like it’s announcing Škrčka lakes that are waiting for us. From the rain that had threatened us, now there is no trace. Above us are peaks Bobotov kuk, Prutaš, Soa and Sareni pasovi and we know that we’re close.

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We are going down and on the horizon appears Škrčko lake located at an altitude of 1686 m. We give it a moment of attention, with the intention to come back later, when we leave things in the hub, and visit the small lake located behind the home, at an altitude of 1711 m. It welcomes us bathed in the sun, and we sit for a while on its coast and absorb rays, which felt amazing after icy wind that whipped us through the mountain.

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Škrčko lake was the main goal and we spend more time on its coast.

I sit on a rock, looking at turquoise color around me. If I look up, I see the peaks that are still illuminated by the sun, even if the day comes to an end. The wind is ruffling my hair and I’m not trying to move it from the face anymore.

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-This mountain is so unusually beautiful. But how it happened? – I ask Jelena, who is sitting on a rock next to mine.

-You wish it all on your chest. But not in a negative sense, but to hug it. To hug it, and then to put it back, where it belongs – she answered.

We continue pleasant silence and watch the thin waves moving from the left to the right, as if they want to convince me that they are transient. Like I do not know that I know her more than them. The mountain taught me everything as well as that the time is just a despicable lie.


We’re going back to the hub, which is a place with immense potential, unused. To sleep over is 5e and let’s say that it is functional. To a certain extent. Fireplace, which I saw when I came in and that made me imagine a crackling fire with a glass of wine is not working from ’86.

We are sitting on a bench outside and watch the moon that’s size of a coin, nestled between two peaks and it perfectly enhances the panorama with fluffy shy clouds crawling under and over it.

-What is the love for the mountain, sit and freeze up – Jelena breaks the silence.

-Oh .. nothing here is important. You can be no one, with no name. Human being. Alive. I close my eyes and feel. My mountain loves me.


Photos by my dear friend Jelena Jovićević

~ Our journey on Youtube ~

Tara canyon: ziplining over the deepest canyon in Europe

Sometimes things look so easy.

Finally everything is where it should be, or life just seems clearer from this perspective.

It’s July, the Sun’s rays emerge after a strong downpour that did good to vegetation and to myself. I have this one friend who loves rain, so there was two of us, rain lovers and we spent the whole day in the canyon where it was raining. There will be a rainbow later.

To get back to the place from which everything seems so clear.

I’m in the air, at a height of 170m, just above the deepest canyon in Europe, and if you ask me, this is all i need for a perfect day. Magic of gravity does its job and with cable long 350m, i’m easily moving from one to the other side of the canyon, while on my left side i have this amazing view of the bridge whose elegant arches are making a surprisingly harmonious combination with high, rough rocks, in which is cut, by many special, a tear of Europe, Tara – which now i observe from a bird’s perspective. Across the canyon I crossed quickly enough to let a wind herd adrenaline in my chest, and slow enough not to miss one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen.

Nekada stvari izgledaju tako lako.

Najzad je sve tamo gdje treba da bude, ili zivot prosto izgleda jasnije iz ove perspektive.

Jutro je, zraci Sunca se pomaljaju posle jakog pljuska koji je prijao kako vegetaciji, tako i meni. Imam tu jednu prijateljicu koja voli kisu, pa smo se nasle nas dvije, ljubiteljke kise i cijeli dan provele u kanjonu u kom je padala.Bice duga kasnije.
Da se vratim na to mjesto sa kog je sve jasnije.
Nalazim se u vazduhu, na visini od 170m, tik iznad najdubljeg kanjona u Evropi i, ako mene pitate, u zivotu mi ne treba nista vise od ovog pogleda. Magija gravitacije radi svoj posao i cini da, sajlom dugackom 350m, lako predjem sa jedne na drugu stranu kanjona, dok sa svoje lijeve strane imam nesvakidasnji pogled na most, ciji elegantni lukovi cine iznenadjujuce skladan spoj sa visokim, grubim stijenama u koje je usjecena, po mnogom posebna, suza Evrope, Tara – koju sada posmatram iz pticije perspektive.
Preko kanjona sam presla dovoljno brzo, da vjetar utjera adrenalin u moje grudi, a da ipak ne propustim jedan od najljepsih pogleda koje sam ikada vidjela.

Where is it?
Big bridge over the Tara river in northern Montenegro. It is located at the crossroads between Mojkovac, Žabljak and Pljevlja, between the villages of Budečevica and Trešnjica.

Gdje se nalazi zip line?

Kod mosta na Tari, na sjeveru Crne gore. Most se nalazi na raskrsnici izmedju Mojkovca, Zabljaka i Pljevalja, izmedju sela Budecevica i Tresnjica.

Canyon Nevidio, exploring Montenegro

It’s sunny morning and we are in Shavnik, which is as I can notice, small place, but real miracle of mother nature, beautiful and could be placed in the pocket of God. The boy, who we met later, gave us instructions how to get to the start point, which is few minutes away from where we were. We came in the place named Poscenje, inebriated with the beauty of everything that surrounded us. The cook had familiar accent and when I asked him where he was from and he told me that he came from Loznica. I am happy because that accent belongs to certain people that I deeply love, but I have not seen for a long time. We were sitting on wooden bench, under the cane roof. Beside us were beautiful small bungalows, Poscen lake for which we were not sure if one could swim in it, but it looked so beautiful, especially on hot day. Soon, breakfast was served with doughnuts and honey as the best. Mmmm, that brought my childhood memories and made me feel as child again. The day before i would be careful with food, because i would have wanted that all that weight simply disappear, but that day i took one because, anyway, i was going canyoning.

Finally, we went on. Bojana, me, few more girls and guide Rajko, who was very fast, but also very careful at the same time. The sight I saw at the beginning of our little adventure was even more beautiful than rumors. In the place where river get lost in the strangest way, there you will find the last found canyon in Europe. Words are my passion , but I have to admit, when it comes to this place, they are just not enough, at least not mine words.

Even with all that beauty, canyon was very cruel in the fight with all of us who was trying to get through. As much as we were getting through it, it was getting through us too.

Temperature of water caused screams with each entrance, never mind we were in such a good suits. Entering the canyon i was making my way through the aisle which was less than a meter wide. The first few meters never came in the touch with the sun lights, because of the rocks that were stuck above my head – wild and cruel, but beautiful nature.

I heard Bojana : ” Jack! Jack!” Yes, the water was icy as the one when Rose called Jack in Titanic, with a significant difference, we wasn’t shooting in the pool.

The canyon has no mercy, cuts and scratches, than impress and than all over again. The first jump. I held my nose and I let myself fall into the icy, turquoise water. Not scary, but it is unusual. After so much time in the room I went into the canyon before I went for a walk. I love all my crazy and unusual ideas.

I felt good. I kept asking Bojana: ”Do you feel this?” I wanted her to feel the same as me. iI looked behind me, she was there, I was surprised how calm she was. I thought she will be scared, but she wasn’t, so I was thrilled. Time was going so fast. Fast swimming between the enchanting narrow passages, to pool out as soon as we can, from the icy water in which the body loses strength and sleep overtake us, than few steps on dry, catching the sun’s rays and power for the next part.

The water was clean, but colored because of rock that was around and through a thin gap I saw a piece of heaven. I didn’t see my foot, so it went down into the hole. I hurt my knee. It didn’t hurt much, but it hurt irritating. I continued, adrenaline didn’t allow the knee to slow down. On the next few jumps, there was whispering ”is this the highest one?” Shake of the head and sighs of fear, but no one thought that’s a bad idea, on the contrary. Then the moment came for the highest one, I looked down, turquoise water, framed by cliffs. Seven meters bellow me, but from my perspective it seemed a lot more. It took me a second to pull myself together, perhaps to count to ten, but the guide was trying to help me, pushing me a little. But he did it wrong, when I was already going to jump, so I rotated in the air and I fell in the water right to the face and stomach. I floated in the icy water, no air, and completely unable to move my arm at least. However, I felt the water ejected. In contact with air, my lungs were aching for air, trying to breathe as much as possible, but I felt like it wasn’t enough. However, after few minutes everything was fine. Everyone around were frightened and those who stayed behind me, they went down the ladder. My face was completely blue, my body was in pain and I was freezing, but we continued. I felt exhausted, I barely walked through the water and It was so hard to climb the rocks. I complained Bojana that I’m loosing concentration, but she said: ”No, you can’t!”, just what I told her about twenty minutes earlier.

Again straits, swimming, rapids and then I realized I was standing at a new jump and I was shocked. But a few seconds later, after I looked around, I realized that was the most beautiful one. The water was warmer. The air was warmer. And the plants were around us. I closed my eyes and jumped. I enjoyed the moment, A bit of swimming and I realized… the end. I was happy because I was exhausted, but also so thrilled. I soaked up the sun’s rays, vomiting energy. Photo for the end.

We climbed for an hour at an incredibly steep mountain, through the woods and then descended down the little road, to the start point.

We are happy. I’m happy.

I’m happy for this experience and I feel privileged. I really think that I know how to choose the best places on this side of the universe. 🙂


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Jutro je i Sunce nam zeli dobrodoslicu u novi dan. Nalazimo se u Šavniku, koji, primjećujem, jeste nešto najmanje sto sam ikada vidjela, ali je divan, čudo prirode, skupljeno u jednu šaku.

Dečko, koga kasnije upoznajemo, preko telefona nam daje instrukcije, kako da stignemo do početne tačke, udaljene par minuta vožnje. Stižemo u mjesto Pošćenje, opijene ljepotom svega sto nas okružuje. Primjećujem poznat naglasak i pitam kuvara odakle je. ‘’Loznica’’, odgovara. Radosna sam jer je to naglasak nekih ljudi koje volim, a koje nisam dugo čula.

Sjedimo na drvenim klupicama, pod krovom od trske. Pored nas su predivni, mali bungalovi, Pošćensko jezero za koje nismo sigurne da je za kupanje, ali tako lijepo izgleda, pogotovo na vrelom danu.

Uskoro stiže doručak, na vrhu trpeze, priganice i med. Mmmm, kao kada sam bila dijete i kao da ponovo to postajem. Juče bih pazila, jer zelim da ovi kilogrami koji su ostali na meni što prije nestanu, ali jutros ću uzeti jednu, i onako idem na kanjoning posle doručka.

Vodič Rajko, brz, ali pazljiv, ja, Bojana i jos par djevojaka iz grupe, krećemo u kanjon o kom sam mnogo slušala i ono sto vidim je mnogo ljepše od svih priča koje sam o njemu čula. Tamo gdje se rijeka čudno gubi, nalazi se poslednji osvojeni kanjon Evrope.  Riječi su moja strast, ali priznajem da često nisu dovoljne, bar ne ove moje. Pored svoje ljepote, kanjon je jako surov u borbi sa svima nama koji se probijamo kroz njega. Koliko mi prolazimo kroz njega, toliko i on prolazi kroz nas.

Ulazeći u kanjon, probijam se kroz prolaz, širok manje od jednog metra, koji nikada nije vidio Sunce, ispod stijena koje mi zaglavljene stoje iznad glave, kroz divlju i u svojoj surovosti, prelijepu prirodu.

Pri svakom ulasku u vodu, i pored odijela od neoprena, njena temperatura izaziva vrisak. Bojana doziva: ‘’Dzek! Dzek!’’ Da, voda je bila ledena kao ona kada Kate doziva Leonarda di Capria u Titaniku, uz značajnu razliku, mi nismo snimali u bazenu. 🙂

Kanjon nema milosti, reže i  grebe, prkosi, zastrašuje, pa zadivi, a onda, sve ispočetka.

Prvi skok. Zatvorim nos i prepustim se padu i ledenoj,  tirkiznoj vodi. Nije strašno, ali je neobicno. Posle toliko vremena u sobi, nisam izašla da prošetam nego sam otisla u kanjon. I volim sve svoje ludosti.

Osjećam se dobro. Zapitkujem Bojanu: ‘’Imas li osjećaj?’’ Želim da osjeća isto što i ja. Pogledam iza sebe, ona ide, iznenadjena sam  koliko je staložena. Pomislila sam da će se vise plašiti, ali nije. Bila sam oduševljena.

Sekundu po sekundu, otkucao bi cijeli sat, koji ne bi smo ni osjetile. Brzo plivanje izmedju zadivljujuće uzanog prolaza, da bi se što prije izvukle iz ledene vode u kojoj tijelo gubi snagu i obuzima nas san, par koraka po suvom, hvatanje sunčevog zraka i snage za sledeći dio.

Voda je čista, ali obojena stijenama koje je nadvisuju i samo kroz tanki procjep vidim parče neba. Ne vidim kuda hodam i noga mi propada u udubljenje. Povrijedila sam koljeno. Ne boli mnogo, ali boli iritirajuce. Nastavljam dalje, adrenalin ne dopušta koljenu da uspori.

Na sledećih nekoliko skokova čuje se šaputanje ‘’da li je ovo taj najvisočiji’’? Odmahivanje glavom i uzdasi straha, ali niko ni ne pomišlja da mu je krivo što je tu, naprotiv. Onda je došao momenat i za njega, pogledam prema dole, tirkizna voda, uokvirena liticama. Sedam metara ispod mene, ali iz moje perspektive čini se mnogo više. Treba mi par sekundi da se saberem, možda da izbrojim do deset, ali vodič  pokušava da mi pomogne, gurnuvši me  malo. Medjutim, to je uradio pogrešno, u trenutku kada sam ja već krenula da skočim, zato se u vazduhu rotiram i na vodu (ne u vodu) padam licem i stomakom. Lebdim u ledenoj vodi, bez vazduha i potpuno nemoćna da pomjerim barem ruku, kako bih se izvukla na površinu. Ipak, osjećam kako me voda izbacuje. U dodiru sa vazduhom, moja pluća pokušavaju da udahnu što više mogu, ali osjećam kao da to nije dovoljno. Ipak, posle par sekundi, sve je u redu. Svi oko mene su  uplašeni, oni koji su ostali iza mene, posle toga što su vidjeli, silaze lestvicama. Lice mi je potpuno plavo, sve me boli i smrzavam se, ali osim toga, u redu sam. Krecemo dalje.

Osjećam se malaksalo, jedva hodam kroz vodu, jos teže prelazim stijene. Žalim se Bojani da gubim koncentraciju, na šta mi odgovara ,‘’ne, to ne smiješ’’, isto što sam ja njoj rekla dvadesetak minuta ranije.

Ponovo tjesnaci, plivanje, bukovi, a onda , preneražena shvatam da stojim na novom skoku. Ali par sekundi kasnije, nakon što sam pogledala oko sebe, shvatam da je najljepši do sada. I voda je toplija. Vazduh je topliji. I biljke su oko nas. Zatvaram oči i skačem.  Uživam u sadašnjosti dok me voda izbacuje na površinu. Malo plivanja i shvatam  ono sto su  vodiči prećutkivali posmatrajući efekat iznenadjenja. Srećna jer mi je kraj potreban posle par sati aktivnog prolaska i toliko oduševljena da bih se sjutra vratila, upijam zrake Sunca, povraćajući energiju. Fotografija za kraj.

Penjemo se skoro sat vremena uz nevjerovatno strmu stranu, kroz šumu, a onda silazimo putićem do početne tačke. Srećne smo. Srećna sam.

Srećna sam zbog ovog iskustva i osjećam se privilegovano. Mislim da umijem da izaberem najbolja mjesta na ovoj strani svemira. 🙂












                                                                              photos by Dimitrije Labudovic


Durmitor Ice cave: Hidden winter in Montenegro


I was born and raised on Durmitor Mountain and I’m so grateful that I have had the opportunity to be surrounded by the art of Mother Nature for so long. I think that the contours of the mountains, glaciers, lakes, mountain plants and that crispy air has had a big impact on who I am today. My house is located near the entrance of the Durmitor National Park.

A few days ago we had planned something for this morning. If you live in Zabljak, either to go to the shop, have a coffee in some of the local places (Kino pub and sometimes Or’o – when they don’t play shitty music) or have a walk with a friend, you always see the peaks of Durmitor, sometimes illuminated by the sun, sometimes immersed in fog. But they are always there to remind you that you are not where you should be. The Mountain is calling. After a few warnings, we decided to climb up to one of my favorite places on Durmitor. If I may choose a favorite.

If you look from Zabljak (1456 m) town (highest town in the Balkans) you will notice easily on the right side of Durmitor massif, one peak with a very special outlook and form which makes it a very important part of Durmitor’s panorama. Because of it’s rounded peak, Durmitorians gave this peak the name “Obla Glava”(Rounded head). This peak is very famous because of Ledena Pecina (Ice Cave), which is placed on the NE side of the Obla Glava massif. The ice cave is the natural beauty of Durmitor National Park. In this cave there are beautiful stalactite and stalagmite formations made of ice. It’s one of the closest things to the Zabljak that one should visit on Durmitor, so we decided to do it. Black lake is the starting point for a lot of trips on Durmitor, so, when we woke up, and finished our breakfast, we went to the Black lake, which is located 2 km from the center of Zabljak. The easiest and the most beautiful way that you can reach the Ice cave is via katun Lokvice (summer pasture), where you can see the most diverse landscapes as you go on. The road is not overly demanding, and you need 3 hours to reach the cave. We went a little bit longer this time and went a more difficult route by Crno Jezero (Black lake) (1416 m) – Jaksica Mlin (1514 m) – Stari Katun (1931 m) – Ledena Pecina (Ice Cave) (2303 m). This hike is not difficult, but we are taking breaks.

The Ice cave is our goal, but each step that we are making to reach that goal is so delightful that we have to stop and save it somewhere in our heads to always have that picture with us. And of course, with every step we can see spomenak (forget me not), my favorite flower. I have to pay attention to that beauty and Violeta as my friend is urging me to over and over again. And I swear to you, anywhere else food is not as tasty as when you take it up the mountain. Especially chocolate. I always carry chocolate, because it can give me strength in the moment. The best chocolate you can find in Montenegro is Najljepse zelje, remember that. Any place that you choose is wonderful, because it’s Durmitor, but this one I particularly like.

My favorite childhood memory is that morning, when I open my eyes and peer through the window to see snow topped pine trees and a metre white-layer of snow that has fallen over one night. I still remember that smell of winter and sparkling snow that I loved so much. One morning, every year when the end of winter came, I would take a plastic bowl and fill it with snow and keep it in the freezer until next winter. And then came the moment when I realized that Durmitor does that for me; somewhere in his massive body he carefully preserved the eternal winter, winter that we visit to this autumn day.

When we came to the Ice cave we were so tired. All the way to the cave is quite steep, so we sat down and took out all the food that we brought and ate the greater part of it and drank beer, Niksicko beer. Then it was time to get down there. At the entrance, which is pretty steep and covered with snow, it’s great if you have a rope, which we had, but it is not necessary. You can just dig your shoes into the snow. For this tour you don’t need anything more than hiking shoes, beer and chocolate.

We were greeted by a hall of eternal ice and snow. At the bottom of the cave, there are numerous icy stalagmites, some small, and some a few meters high. At the end of the summer season they are smaller, as they were this time. We walked around the stalagmites and breathed the cold air that looked like cigarette smoke. We were in there for about ten minutes. Two of us, one guy from Zabljak and a bunch of Russians. Before we came out of the cave, we sang Russian songs, while the cave echoed our voices and we were all happy and very calm. All our problems were 2160m below us. That’s why we love the mountain.

We decided to come down over the summer pasture of Vuk Kovacevic, which is a little easier and a shorter way, but delightful. If you pass this way (Katun Lokvice), come and visit Vuk. He lives there in the mountains and does not speak English, but people can make some kind of conversation in Serbian, Russian, or simply gestures; very interesting man. I mean, he lives high in the mountain all by himself. So, if you are on Durmitor and want to go to this magical place, you don’t need a guide, a map is enough. This is one of the shortest, but not less impressive tours. In September hiking is more impressive than cave. So, if you can, do it in the spring or beginning of summer. We did it in September and it was beautiful, but the snow had melted. If you have just one opportunity to go there, choose the right time. I will share some photos with you, so you can see how it looks in autumn. Anyway, I think that the Ice cave is the perfect place if you want to find your moment out of time and out of space. In the heart of the most beautiful Montenegrin mountain.


















Durmitor mountain: fairytales of valley Lomni do

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If we would transform our lives into a mosaic of moments, it would be the most valuable work in human history. Long time ago, from one dear book I have learned  that the mosaic is a guide for the personal legend. That legend that we all have, while confused and discouraged we are looking for meaning that is so simple and too large to be visible to the naked eye. Some of us feel that the only purpose is to live that legend and to be happy. When you are happy, your mother is happy, and your child , and your friend is happy, nature is happy, the universe, and God.

Yesterday morning I woke up, enjoyed my bath gel with the smell of olives, until the water became completely cold , stopped by to buy espresso and took a bus to Žabljak.

This morning I was at the place where I haven’t been for the years, where not many people walked for the years, but long time ago there were the hosts and housewives, and children, merchants and shepherds.

That’s the place hidden in the massive of Durmitor mountain, place  where important parts of my character were made, where you can hear the crickets, as they sit on your shoulder, where if you take a bit longer gaze into the mountains, you can see the spindly deer running.

I feel so peaceful there, like that is not the part of this world. It’s so pure and out of any evil. I’m safe there. I’m myself there. Fu**ing fairy there. J

Durmitor is stunning, every part of it (I would say it’s the most beautiful mountain in Montenegro), but Lomni do is special for me. All that peaks, that amazing valley, the view, the smell and one of my favorite lakes – Modro lake. Modro lake is placed 800 m far from the road Žabljak – Sedlo – Trsa. It’s is situated 11 km from Žabljak town. Its altitude is 1609 m, the surface is 7300 square meters. Maximum depth of the lake is 3,3 m. Its coast is long between 630 m and 700 m and is mostly stable during the year, without any decreasing and increasing of water level. The wildest part of lake is on its southern side, below the rocky massif of Ranisava peak.

Man is a part of nature, and his war against nature is inevitably a war against himself, so this place, more than others, make you be in the peace with yourself, and every single person should feel the way I feel when I’m sitting on the rock above Modro lake, looking at the most beautiful scenery in the world. Feel endless. Small and infinite at the same time, cause we are small and we are infinite.

Today, when I got back to Žabljak, I felt something like that. On my way to buy bread, in front of the shop, on the bench was guy in his late twenties, with bright eyes, the beard, the dirty clothes, with hiking shoes and a huge backpack. He followed me with curious eyewink, and I wondered if he is traveling alone, from which point on the globe he arrived, if he was hungry. If he felt good in Montenegro, in Zabljak. With bread I bought Snickers, because when I was on the mountain in these boots and with that backpack, it was certainly the best snack in the world. I asked him if he was tired, I found out that his country is not that far away from Montenegro (Bulgaria) and gave him a candy bar. I will describe his face properly if I tell you to imagine Santa Claus when he was young – pretty face, good-natured, sparkling eyes and the beard – perhaps as many inches as cities he visited. He rolled a cigarette for me, we talked for a long time, and then parted .

My house smelled of homemade cookies with cinnamon, I made coffee with milk, listened I’m into you on repeat and smiled paying tribute to a wonderful, wonderful day.




Kada bi smo živote pretvorili u mozaik momenata, to bi bila najvrijednija djela u ljudskoj istoriji. Davno sam iz jedne drage knjige naucila da je taj mozaik putokaz za ličnu legendu. Onu koju imamo svi dok zbunjeno i obeshrabljeno jurcamo trgajući za smislom koji je tako jednostavan i prevelik da bi bio vidljiv golim okom. Samo neki od nas osjete da je jedini smisao proživjeti svoju legendu i samim tim biti srećan. Kada si srećan i tvoja majka je srećna, i tvoje dijete, i prijatelj ti je srećan, i priroda je srećna, i univerzum, i Bog, i sve čije si je srećno.

Juče ujutru sam se probudila, uživala u kupci sa mirisom maslina, sve dok voda nije postala potpuno hladna, svratila po espresso za ponijeti i sjela na bus za Žabljak.

Ovog jutra sam se našla na mjestu na kom nisam bila godinama, na koje nije mnogo ljudi kročilo godinama, a nekada je tamo bilo domaćina i domaćica, i djece i trgovaca i pastira.

To je mjesto skriveno u masivu Durmitora, mjesto gdje sam izgradila bitne dijelove svoje ličnosti, gdje se cvrčci čuju kao da ti sjede na ramenu, gdje ćeš ako se malo duže zagledaš u pravcu šume ugledati vretenastu srnu u trku.

Osjećam se tako mirno na tom mjestu, kao da ono nije dio baš ovog svijeta. Tako je čisto i izvan svakog zla. Sigurna sam tamo. Svoja sam tamo. Je*ena vila sam tamo.

Durmitor je nevjerovatan, svaki dio njega (rekla bih, najljepša planina Crne Gore), ali Lomni do je posebno mjesto za mene. Svi ti vrhovi, predivna dolina, taj pogled, miris i jedno od mojih najdražih jezera – Modro jezero. Modro jezero je skriveno 800m od puta Zabljak – Sedlo – Trsa, na 11km od Zabljaka.

Nalazi se na visini od 1609m, dok mu je površina 7300m2. Maksimalna dubina jezera je 3,3m. Obala mu je duga izmedju 630 i 700m. Tokom godine je stabilno i nema znatnih promjena nivoa vode u zavisnosti od godišnjeg doba.

Čovjek je dio prirode i svaki rat sa prirodom, rat je sa samim sobom, a ovo mjesto, više nego druga, čini da budeš u miru sa sobom. Svako bi se trebao osjećati onako kako se ja osjećam kada sjedim na stijeni iznasd Modrog jezera, posmatrajući najljepšu panorama svijeta. Osjećati beskraj u sebi. Jer smo tako mli, a tako beskrajni. Tako divni.

Danas, kad sam se vratila na Žabljak, osjetila sam nešto slično tome. Krećem da kupim hleb, a ispred radnje, na klupi, sjedi momak u kasnim dvadesetim, svijetlih očiju, sa bradom, u ishabanoj odjeći, planinarskim cipelama i sa ogromnim ruksakom. Radoznalo me prati pogledom, a ja se pitam da li putuje sam, sa koje je tačke na globusu stigao, da li je gladan. Uz hleb kupujem i Snickers, jer kada sam ja na planini u takvim cipelama i sa takvim ruksakom, to je zasigurno najbolji zalogaj na svijetu. Pitala sam ga da li je umoran, saznala da njegova zemlja i nije tako daleko, iz Bugarske je i poklonila mu čokoladicu. Njegovo lice ću najbolje opisati ako vam kažem da zamislite Deda Mraza kad je bio mlad – lijepo lice, dobroćudno, svjetlucave oči i brada – možda onoliko centimetara koliko gradova. Smotao je cigaretu za mene, pričali smo jako dugo, a onda se rastali.

Moja kuća je mirisala na domaće kolače sa cimetom, skuvala sam kafu sa mnogo mlijeka, pustila I’m into you na repeat i osmjehnula se odajući počast predivnom danu.






Durmitor mountain: Just an ordinary day

Again, Floyds are making separate galaxy of my room. Lulu’s pulling her snout between my neck and shoulder and purring loudly. I’m observing sweater and pants, draped over the chair, waiting for me to go out from warm quilts.

My two friends are also somewhere under the blankets and we are listening the song of the rain and sounds of my kitten. Candy box of heartshaped marzipan and cup of orange-cinnammon tea are beside the bed.

Later, we go to the forest and to the beautiful ethno village near Poscensko lake. We ride horses, eat homemade bread with cream cheese (kajmak) and drink tea of mountain herbs. The same herbs through which we run as kids, just couple minutes later.

I’m observing, between the ears of my kitten, which is tucked into my lap, a cup of tea is smoking. I hear the sound of cutlery and I see smiles in the dim light. The sun begins to set and the mountains are sinking into sleep almost imperceptibly.

– My kitten, do you know how happy we are now?

-Prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. (it’s a yes.)

Ponovo Flojdi od moje sobe prave zasebnu galaksiju. Lulu zavlaci njuskicu izmedju mog vrata i ramena i glasno prede. Posmatram dzemper i pantalone, prebacene preko naslona stolice, kako cekaju da izmilim ispod toplog jorgana.

Moje dvije prijateljice su isto tu negdje, pod jorganima. Slusamo dobot kise i predilicu na mom ramenu. Bombonjera od marcipana u obliku srca i solja caja od narandze i cimeta kraj kreveta.

Kasnije cemo u sume i do divnog katuna kraj Poscenskog jezera. Jahacemo konje, jesti domaci hleb sa kajmakom i popiti caj od planinskih trava. Istih onih kroz koje cemo, samo par minuta kasnije, djetinje trcati.

Posmatram, izmedju usiju mog maceta, koje se ususkalo na mom krilu, solju caja kako se pusi. Cujem zvuk escajga i na prigusenom svijetlu vidim osmjehe. Sunce polako zalazi i planina skoro neprimjetno tone u san.

– Maco moja, znas li koliko smo srecni sada?

– Prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. (znaci, da)



                                                         photos by Jelena Jovicevic

Tara canyon rafting: Take me to the water

It’s September and in my eyes everything is made of cinnamon. If only cinnamon can be synonym for beautiful. The mountain has a special smell in autumn. We are here, leaning against the walls of logs, hiding our noses into the collars of our jackets. Smiles hidden into collars. Minutes are passing by and it seems to be getting colder and mountain above my forehead tells me I’m not wrong. Finally, a small van stops right in front of us, the warm transport arrives. Likable driver and bunch of young people from Belgium. Few of them from England. As we are moving away from Durmitor to the Tara canyon, where we are going, the temperature is lower and the landscape at every meter is simply breathtaking. Country road, leaves in the colors of September, few houses along the road. Fruit trees, fruit trees on every step. Autumn from a book. Soon, we are in the house of our guides, where we change our clothes for neoprene suits and toast with the boss’s brandy. Everything around me is like a fairytale. Peaks emerge from the dense clouds that seem to be extensions of carefully planted fruit trees. I’m in accordance with everything that surrounds me. Here we go. We sit in two large boats on the shore of Splaviste and everyone takes their paddle. I put my fist at the sky blue water with shades of turquoise and feel how cold and fast it is. I admire the clarity of the water. I need badly to dive into it. The canyon is deeply entrended arterie in the Earth’s crust. Always very pulsating and delightful while it tames just at the moment when you think you caught it. With the color of it I would paint the walls of the room for a nicest dream. First paddle left side, then right and we descend the river very fast. We stop and we are on the shore again. I look at my footprints in gray sand and through the dense forest, swollen by the rain, I’m moving to the place where I see a scene that leaves us all speechless. Sparkling, white falls of river Ljutica, left tributary of the Tara river. It’s signed two times in the Guinness book of records as the most powerful spring of clean water in Europe, with 1000 liters per second and then as the shortest river in the world, 170m long. We are coming back to the boat and soon we are passing under the Great bridge. After few nice water parts on the right side of the river we can see the Monastery of Saint Archangel Michael. Small monastery stands alone into this wild beauty, like it was there from the beginning. And the third stop, Zeleni vir or Eden Gardens (this name maybe sounds like flattery, but fits well with what we saw and felt). Here river is calm and exceptionally deep, up to 15m. The explosion of blue and green flows into my palms making the cheeks stretched into a smile and my belly crossed the torrent of excitement. Above the crystal clear water two rocks are rising. Each of them is high few meters and I’m attracted by them like it’s a magnet. I’m standing on the top of the rock. These colors are no longer just beneath me, now they are into me. My body cooperates with each element around. It’s part of nature. My feet are walking slowly to the edge, eyes are closing and the ground beneath my feet disappears. Few moments of free fall and then water. Everything I see is beautiful, transparent depths and then suddenly, west brings me back to the surface. I’m swimming back to the rocks, but it’s hard, the current pulls me back. There is a hand of a friend which draws me to the surface and then we are doing all over again. Wet and frozen, we are going back to the boat where we are paddling to make it even a little warmer. And too soon we are at the end. Zugica bay. We are moving the boat to the surface now, changing into dry clothes and sitting at table full of fragrant homemade food. It never tasted better.
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Septembar je i sve mi je od cimeta. Ako je cimet mjerna jedinica za lijepo. Planina ima poseban miris u jesen. Mi smo tu, naslonjene na zid od oblice, skrivajući noseve u kragne.Skrivajući osmjehe u kragne. Minuti prolaze i čini mi se da postaje sve hladnije, a planina iznad mog čela odgovara potvrdno. Napokon, mali kombi se parkira tik ispred nas. Naš topli prevoz je stigao. Simpatičan vozač i gomila omladine iz Belgije. Par njih iz Engleske. Kako odmicemo od Durmitora ka kanjonu Tare, gdje smo se zaputili, temperatura je niža i pejzaž na svakom metru oduzima dah. Seoski put, lišće u bojama septembra, po koja kuća uz put. Voće, voće na svakom koraku. Jesen iz bukvara. Ubrzo smo se našli u rodnoj kući našeg vodiča, gdje se presvlačimo u neoprenska odijela i nazdravljamo gazdinom rakijom. Sve oko mene je više nego bajno. Vrhovi izranjaju iz gustih oblaka koji kao da su produžetci pažljivo sađenih voćki. U skladu sam sa svim što me okružuje. Krećemo. Raspoređujemo se u dva velika čamca na obali Splavišta i svako uzima svoje veslo. Zaranjam šaku u nebo plavu vodu sa nijansom tirkizne i osjećam koliko je hladna i brza. Koliko je čista. Koliko bi mi trebalo da zaronim u nju. Kanjon je poput duboko urezane arterije u Zemljinoj kori. Uvijek jako pulsirajuć i divan dok te kroti baš u onom trenutku kada misliš da si ti ukrotio njega. A njegova boja, tom bojom bih obojila zidove sobe za miran san. Naizmjenično vesla lijeva pa desna strana i brzo se spuštamo rijekom.
Zaustavljamo se i ponovo smo na obali. Posmatram otiske svojih čizmama u sitnom, sivom pijesku, pa kroz gustu sumu, nabreklu od kise, stizemo do prizora koji nas sve ostavlja bez rijeci. Pjenusavi, bijeli vodopadi rijeke Ljutice, lijeve pritoke Tare koja se nalazi i u Ginisovoj knjizi rekorda kao najjače evropsko vrelo od 1000 litara u sekundi i najkraće evropske rijeke dužine svega 170 metara. Vracamo se ponovo nizvodno, pa uskoro prolazimo ispod divnog, velikog mosta. Nakon par uzbudljivih dijelova, vidimo manastir Sv.Arhangela Mihaila iz 13. vijeka. Mali manastir, usadjen u ovu netaknutu prirodu gdje stoji kao da bi samo tu i trebao biti.
I treca stanica, Zeleni vir ili Rajski vrtovi, ciji naziv, i ako zvuci kao laskanje, pristaje onom sto smo vidjeli.
Rijeka je ovdje posebno duboka, do 15m.
Eksplozija plavih i zelenih boja uliva se u moje dlanove cineci da se obrazi rastegnu u osmjeh i da stomakom predje bujica uzbudjenja. Iznad kristalno ciste vode uzdizu se dvije stijene od po nekoliko metara koje privlace poput magneta.
Na stijeni sam.
Te nijanse vise nisu samo ispod mene nego i u meni. Moje tijelo saradjuje sa svakim elementom oko sebe. Ono je dio prirode. Stopala polako koracaju ka ivici i oči se sklapaju i tlo pod nogama nestaje. Par trenutaka slobodnog pada, zatim voda. Sve sto vidim je divna, prozirna dubina, a onda najednom, prsluk me vraća na povrsinu. Plivam ka stijenama sa naporom, struja me vuče nazad. Tu je ruka prijatelja, koja me izvlaci na kopno, a onda ponavljamo sve zajedno. Mokre se vraćamo u čamac gdje veslamo kako bi smo se makar malo zagrijale. I prerano, vec smo na kraju. Zugica luka. Izvlacimo čamac na kopno, presvlacimo se u suvu odjecu i sjedamo za mirisnu trpezu prepunu domace hrane.
Nikada nije bila ukusnija.
                                                     Some photos from my GoPro 
So, we were doing rafting from Splaviste to Zugica bay, which is the shortest tour you can do. Lenght is 12km and it takes about 2 hours on the water. This part of the river is the center of the National Park, UNESCO Natural Reserve.
And if u’re wondering about speed category of this trip, it depends which time of the year it is. So, if categorization uses numbers from 1 to 6, it lookes like this:
1th April – 15th May – 4 to 5
15th May – 20th June – 3 to 4
20th June – 15th October – 2 to 3
What i need for this trip? 
Actually, only good will. Rafting company will give you neoprene clothes and shoes, life jacket, helmet and a paddle. During the tour you can use your camera, in the boat u’ll find a waterproof box for it. If it’s sunny, you should take some sun cream and bottle of water. Maybe some vodka. 🙂
How to book?
If u’re in Zabljak u’ll see rafting companies on every step. But u don’t have really to look for them, they will find u. 🙂 If u want to book it online, you can do it on email or on phone number +382679091156
How to find the start?
It’s important to go to the Tara bridge and it’s just 30 minutes driving to Pljevlja direction. And if u’re coming from another plac e, than it’s viser to ask 🙂 Even if u’re not interested in doing rafting, you should go for the beautiful view and maybe zipline.

Dakle, ovo je najkraca rafting tura, od Splavista do Zugica luke, u trajanju od 2h. Dugacka je 12km. Tezina ture varira, zavisno od godisnjeg doba, pa to izgleda ovako:
1. April – 15. Maj – 4 do 5
15. Maj – 20. Jun – 3 do 4
20. Jun – 15. Oktobar – 2 do 3
Sta treba da ponesete? 
Prakticno, samo dobro raspolozenje. Rafting kompanija ce vam obezbjediti neopren odijelo i cipele, prsluk za spasavanje, kacigu, veslo, vodootpornu kutiju za kameru. Ako je suncano trebalo bi ponijeti kremu za suncanje i flasu vode. Mozda neku vodku. 🙂
Kako rezervisati?
Ako imate smjestaj na Zabljaku vidjecete rafting agencije na svakom koraku. Mada necete morati ni da ih trazite, oni ce naci vas. 🙂 Ako zelite da rezervisete mjesto online, to mozete uraditi ma mail adresu ili na broj telefona +382 67909156
Kako doci do pocetne tacke?
Treba doci do mosta na Tari i ako ste na Zabljaku potrebno je samo pola sata voznje u pravcu Pljevalja. Za ostalo :). Cak i ako niste raspolozeni za rafting, treba vidjeti predivan pogled koji most pruza ili probati zip line na njemu.
Photos by my dear, dear friend Jelena Jovicevic